Making sense of solar panel specifications
Solar panel technical specs don’t have to be scary. Monocrystalline? Polycrystalline? Read this guide to better understand the choices that are available.
If you’re going to spend thousands of dollars to put solar panels on your roof, it’s a very good idea to take a few minutes to review the product specifications of the panels that your installer recommends to make sure you understand what you’re buying.
When selecting a panel, there are important tradeoffs, especially when it comes to price and efficiency. It’s important to understand what these are so you can communicate your needs to your installer. They want you to walk away as a satisfied customer, so a good installer will be happy to have this conversation with you.
But reading solar panel specification sheets can be a little daunting. They’re full of technical jargon, electrical ratings, and many industry standards for fire, quality, environmental, and electrical performance. Fortunately, out of the sea of numbers and acronyms on a typical spec sheet, there’s only a few that a homeowner needs to zero in on so they know they are getting the product they expect.
Just a couple terms to clarify first:
A solar cell is a silicon wafer that is usually 125mm x 125mm or 156mm x 156mm in size.
A solar panel or solar module is commonly made up of 60, 72, or 96 solar cells wired together. The number of cells isn’t something that’s important to you, but the dimensions of the panel is. Most panels for the residential market are about 65 inches x 39 inches, give or take an inch or two. When comparing two panels, make sure to check that both are residential and not commercial panels, which are larger in size.
Clear? Okay, let’s dive in.
Where can I find the specification sheet for my solar panel?
The easiest way to get this information is to ask your solar installer. If you’re not at that point yet or you’re doing your own research, look on the manufacturer’s website.
Manufactuers often have many different models, and within a particular model that may offer a range of different wattages. Because of this, the model numbers for a solar panel are often long, such as LG380Q1C-V5, which is a 380 watt NeON R panel from LG.
Once you know the exact panel you’re interested in, the datasheets are often available as a PDF under the products, support, or downloads section of a manufacturer’s website.
Monocrystalline vs polycrystalline
Solar panels for the residential market fall into two types: monocrystalline and polycrystalline, often simply refered to as “mono” and “poly”.
(Thin film is a third type, but the technology is relatively new and evolving. It does have the potential to be less expensive than standard panels, as well as having the capability for interesting applications, such as photovoltaics embedded in walls. This is definitely a technology to watch over the next few years.)
Silicon for monocrystalline solar cells is cut from an ingot of silicon that is a single, unbroken crystal. This requires a very high purity silicon and is more difficult to manufacture than polycrystalline. Mono cells are more efficient, less affected by high temperatures, and perform better in low light compared to poly cells. They also have an even black color that many people prefer.
Polycrystalline silicon cells are cut from a block of silicon made of smaller grains of silicon, giving a poly solar cell a flakey appearance due to the grain boundaries, as well as a blue tinge. Compared to monocrystalline silicon, poly generally performs a little worse and is less efficient. The main benefit of poly cells is that they are less expensive due to less complex manufacturing.
Solar panel efficiency
The efficiency of a solar cell is how much of the incoming sunlight is converted into electricity. High efficiency is desirable in a solar panel because it means that you can use fewer panels to achieve the same power output, which gives you the option to cover less of your roof or generate more electricity with the same roof area.
The tradeoff for high efficiency is a higher sticker price (usually) for each panel. However, because you can install fewer panels to achieve the same wattage, you can potentially save money overall due to lower labor costs and less racking hardware. High efficiency panels can also save you money if you are using microinverters or power optimizers, which require one device per panel. With fewer panels you’ll need fewer of these of these inverter devices.
If you’re not sure which way to go, ask your installer to price out systems with high efficiency and low efficiency panels to find out which has a lower overall system cost.
Highest efficiency solar panels
You’ll find efficiency listed on the datasheet of a solar module as a percentage. This number has been climbing over the past decade, and in 2021 you can find several modules on the market with better than 20% efficiency. The panel with the highest nameplate efficiency at the moment is the LG NeON R series, which boasts almost 21.5% efficiency. Lower efficiency panels start around 16%. That ends up being a pretty big difference: it would take only seven 21.5% efficient panels to do the job of ten panels with 16% efficiency.
Another top performing panel is the SunPower X-Series, which are 21.3% efficient.
These highest efficiency panels are monocrystalline, and sometimes bifacial, which is a type of cell that can absorb light from both the front and rear, allowing it to capture extra light that is reflected behind the panel.
Standard test conditions (STC)
However, manufacturers always advertise cell efficiency that is recorded under standard test conditions (STC) in a lab setting. These are idealized conditions that don’t really represent how the panels will perform in the real world. This is because heat causes solar cells to be less efficient, and since solar panels are a dark surface sitting in the sun, they can heat up significantly and produce less electricity.
(It’s for this reason that your home PV system will often perform the best in the spring, when the sun is higher in the sky but air temperatures are still cool.)
STC test conditions specify a solar cell temperature of 25°C and light intensity of 1,000 W/m² (watts per square meter).
To get a better idea of real-world performance, you need to look at the product datasheet and find performance numbers labelled as PTC, NOCT, or CEC.
Real world performance numbers
NOCT, PTC, and CEC are industry test standards that attempt to better represent how solar models will perform in the real world. It’s arguably more important for you to understand these ratings than the nameplate STC rating of your panels.
NOCT (Nominal Operating Cell Temperature) uses the following test conditions: 800 W/m² irradiance (the amount of incoming light), 20°C ambient air temperature, and a wind speed of 1 m/s (meter per second) with the panel mounted at a 45° angle.
It’s important to note that the NOCT test specifies air temperature rather than measuring the actual temperature of the solar cell like the STC test does. This is a key difference because a solar cell sitting in the sun can be dozens of degrees hotter than the air temperature. (Think of how hot the hood of a black car sitting in the sun can get.) And because cell efficiency decreases with temperature, the NOCT test more realistically models how a module sitting on your hot roof will perform. Standardizing the wind speed is also important because of the cooling effect of breezes.
PTC (PVUSA Test Calculation) and CEC (California Energy Commission Test Conditions) are similar tests, except that they both specify 1,000 W/m² irradiance instead of 800 W/m².
An important note is that the California Energy Commission rating requires third-party testing, not just data supplied by the manufacturer. This gives the consumer an important tool to ensure they are buying a panel that works as advertised. All panels listed on the CEC website have met this criteria. (Scroll to the bottom of this page for a link.)
Manufacturers may list either NOCT or PTC/CEC ratings, or sometimes both. NOCT is the rating you will see most commonly. You will also see slightly different labels applied, so you’ll need to look closely. Here are a couple examples.
The example above is a snippet from the datasheet for the SunPower X-Series. In the first column, you can see that the first panel listed is a 360 watt panel. (Again, STC is the nameplate rating, and solar panel power is listed in watts.) The second column is the nominal power (Pnom) under NOCT test conditions. You can see that it is 288 watts, which is significantly lower (20% less) than the theoretical maximum. This is closer to what you would expect to see in day-to-day performance.
Here’s another example, this time for a ReneSola panel.
This datasheet lists the STC output as Pmax (maximum power). The STC Pmax for this panel is 250 W, and the NOCT rating is 185 W, or 74% of the theoretical maximum.
Most of the panels we’ve reviewed have a NOCT rating that is about 75% of the STC output, so this SunPower model performs a little better than average.
As you can see, it’s not hard to understand these numbers, but it’s critical that you are aware of them. One thing to keep in mind: because NOCT and PTC tests use different irradiance values, they can’t be compared with one another.
Standing up to the heat (temperature coefficients)
We’ve mentioned above that solar cells become less efficient as the temperature increases. This is a property you’ll find listed on datasheets as the temperature coefficient of the maximium power (Pmax). Again, it may be labelled slightly differently by manufacturers, so here’s some more examples.
This is the SunPower X-Series datasheet again. You can see that there are three different temperature-related specs. Voc refers to voltage, and Isc refers to short-circuit current. We’re interested in the last column, highlighted in yellow, that tells us how much the maximum power output drops for every one degree Celsius increase in temperature.
In the case of all these panels, the maximum output drops by 0.29% for every 1°C increase, which is why the number listed is negative. In this case, larger numbers (closer to zero) are better, because it means a more heat-tolerant module.
Here’s the same Renesola panel again:
You can see that this panel doesn’t perform as well, losing 0.43% power output for every 1°C increase. If you remember, this Renesola panel had an NOCT rating that was 74% of the STC, while the SunPower panel maintained 80% of the maximum. So, it makes sense that the Renesola panel has a worse temperature coeffient of Pmax. As you can see, it’s a useful check to have these two different measurements as a sanity check against one another.
Wind and snow loads: frontside and backside solar panel strength
If you live in a hurricane-prone area or the snowbelt, you’ll want to pay attention to the mechnical or static load ratings of your modules. There are two ratings: the front side rating, often called the snow load, and the back side rating, or the wind load.
If you’re wondering why the rear of the panel is the wind load side, picture a photovoltatic system mounted on a ground mount. A strong wind blowing against the rear surface area of the panels effectively turns the panel into a sail. This can place a large amount of force on the panel and frame, so these mechnical load tests help ensure that your system can stand up to the elements.
You might see these ratings described on a datasheet as mechnical load, static load, or wind and snow load. The figures are listed in Pascals, which is a unit of pressure. Higher numbers indicate a stronger panel. A typical snow load rating is 5400 Pa, and 2400 Pa is common for wind load, but you will often see higher numbers. Here are some examples:
This is a Canadian Solar panel that lists 6,000 Pa snow load and 4,000 wind load. This is a higher than average panel for both backside and frontside strength, so this would be a good choice if you live in an area with extreme weather.
On the other hand, this JA Solar module has a 2,400 Pa rating for both backside and frontside strength, which is weaker than the model from Canadian Solar. This should not necessarily deter you from choosing this panel, especially if you live in a mild climate, but if you do live in a snow zone and are choosing between two panels that otherwise have similar price and specifications, you should consider going with the stronger panel for added peace of mind.
American vs foreign made panels
The vast majority of solar modules are made in Southeast Asia. This makes sense because China is the largest installer of solar in the world, having about triple the installed solar capacity of the United States, and is continuing to install solar at a breakneck pace.
There are fewer choices if you want an American made panel, but it is certainly possible to find one. The problem is that it isn’t easy for a consumer to find out where their panel is made, because it’s not usually listed on the product sheet.
Also, you can’t tell where a panel is made simply by checking where the company is headquartered. Just like how a Chevy Blazer is made in Mexico while a Toyota Highlander is made in Indiana, you’ll often find Chinese companies making panels in the US, and American companies operating factories in Southeast Asia.
For example, JinkoSolar is a Chinese company that operates a factory in Jacksonville, Florida, where they make their 72-cell mono-PERC module.
SunPower is a US-based company, but they no longer have any manufacturing facilities in the United States.
Mission Solar is notable because it’s a company that is headquartered and builds its modules in San Antonio, Texas. Another is Tesla, which is starting to manufacture its solar roof product in Buffalo, New York.
To learn more, read our article on made-in-America solar panels.
All about solar panel warranties
As a consumer, one of the most important things to pay attention to is the manufacturer’s warranty. This is often specified in two parts: a warranty on materials and workmanship, and a warranty on power output.
Materials and workmanship covers defects in the materials and construction of the panels. While failures are rare, they do happen. One example scenario is a failure of the seals in the frame that allows moisture to get inside. Once humidity is inside the panel it can cause corrosion. Or, in a cold weather environment, moisture leaking into a panel can damage the wiring or cause the layers inside the panel to separate due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles. This type of failure would be covered by the material and workmanship warranty.
The other warranty covers the power output. Solar cells are exposed to high temperatures and UV light, and this causes the panel to slowly degrade over time. Panel quality has gotten better in recent years, and a panel manufactured today might lose only 0.5% of its original power output every year.
Typical warranties you’ll find are 10 years on materials and workmanship, and a 25 year performance warranty of 80%. That is, the panel is warrantied to still generate 80% of its original power output after 25 years. Some manufacturers offer longer warranties.
Finally, you want to select a company that has a good likelihood of still being around in 25 years so that you actually have a company to file a warranty claim with if you need to. Unfortunately, solar is a fast moving industry with tight margins, and there have a few bankruptcies in the past, with other possible bankruptcies on the horizon.
For example, Yingli Solar has been having debt problems for years.
For Chinese or privately held companies, it can be hard to find reliable financial reporting. This is easier for North American companies. For example, Canadian Solar has had positive net income for a few years, and First Solar has recently become profitable and is carrying relatively little debt.
To learn even more about solar panel warranties, read our article on solar panel durability.
Other technical terms on a solar panel specification sheet
You’ll find quite a lot more information than this on a specification sheet. Most of these technical details aren’t very interesting to the average consumer, unless you’re working on a DIY project.
- Open-circuit voltage (Voc): This is the maximum voltage that the panel can output. It’s called open-circuit because it’s the voltage of the panel if it were disconnected from any load.
- Short-circuit current (Isc): This is the maximum current (in amps) that the panel can output, which occurs when the cell is short-circuited.
- Voltage at maximum power point (Vmpp): The voltage of a solar panel will vary as the power generation changes with the sunlight. Vmpp is the voltage of the panel when it hits maximum power output.
- Nominal power (Pmax or Pnom): This is equivalent to the STC or nameplate power rating of the panel.
- Voltage temperature Coefficient (Voc) and Current temperature coefficient (Isc): Similar to Pmax described above, the voltage and current of the solar panel will also be affected by head.
- California Energy Commission list of certified PV modules
- NREL presentation on IEC 61215 This is a good technical description of the various stress tests that are part of this industry standard.
- Yingli’s Slow-Motion Financial Crash Causes Another Stock Exchange Delisting
- The Status of US Solar Manufacturing, One Year After Tariffs
- Performance Parameters for Grid-Connected PV Systems